Where we go

Four miles along the cliff from the lighthouse to the old coastguard hut and back. The reason most people come here.

Saturday mornings on the quay. Thirty-odd stalls, about half of them food, and the only place in town selling anything made locally.

Working lighthouse at the end of the headland. The tower is open on weekend afternoons and the climb is worth it on a clear day.

Café in the old lifeboat shed on the quay. Small, always full, and the only thing open early.

Sea-fed swimming pool cut into the rocks below the promenade, refilled by every high tide.

Sheltered gardens behind the old hotel, planted for wind rather than for show. Benches, a glasshouse, and the best view in town that does not involve a climb.

Restored salt house on the inland road, twenty minutes out of town. Small museum, working evaporation pans, and a shop.

The long beach on the far side of the headland. Almost empty even in season, because the only parking is a mile back.